Sophie Grigson In The Souk

1  Marrakech Magic

In episode one of 'Sophie in the Souk' our irrepressible travelling cook and her Moroccan-born companion, Khalil, arrive in Marrakech and proceed, with his guidance, to uncover the behind the scenes shops, food stalls and bargains of the famous Medina. Walking along the rosy walls of this ancient city they plunge through one of the many arched gates to enter the Medina itself. They bargain for the many beautiful wares in the markets both in the Djemaa El Fna and in other quarters of the covered alleys tucked behind this famous square. Then with Khalil leading the way they head to the old Jewish Quarter to start some serious food buying. Olives, meat and spices are all discussed, analysed and bargained over as they get ready for some serious cooking. Then they venture out to the exclusive Kasbah Agafay on the outskirts of Marrakech for an afternoon of cooking in the charming cooking school located in the Kasbah's herb garden.
Duration: 30'

 

2  Ourika Valley Odyssey

It's another beautiful day in Morocco as Sophie and Khalil decide to explore further afield from Marrakech. They head south into the Ourika Valley a lovely place of rivers, streams and waterfalls about 20 kilometres away. After crossing the fertile Haouz plain and its numerous olive-groves and citrus-tree orchards, they soon arrive at the edge of the banks of the Oued Ourika with the imposing Atlas Mountains in the background and the douar (shanty town) of Tnine-de-l'Ourika. This little township is the region's nerve centre where inhabitants from neighbouring hamlets meet there to negotiate their harvests, and purchase essential all in an indescribable atmosphere; a mixture of peddlers' shouts and hold-ups caused by old donkey-drawn carts. It is here that Sophie and Khalil stop to buy the fresh fish for their picnic planned for later on. Their first stop is to visit Dr. Jalil Belkamel at his beautiful Jardin Bio Aromatique D'Ourika or Nectarome as it is known.
Duration: 30'

 

3  Miracle in the Desert

This episode finds Sophie and Khalil doing a little tourist walk around the world-famous Koutoubia on the edge of the Djemaa El Fna within the Medina walls of Marrakech. Khalil is pointing out the sights and giving some history until the heat drives them into the Pop Art café of Kechmara nearby. In total contrast to what they've seen so far, the café is a hive of trendy, modern art and literature tucked away in a back street. There they decide on another road trip and before you know it they are heading north towards Casablanca to visit the charming Aqallal family on their olive oil estate near El Borouj. There they are welcomed by the family who have been producing award-winning olive oil since 1887. The family have many estates and this 'miracle of the desert' shows how even a hostile terrain can be cultivated for good. Khalil accepts the challenge of cooking lunch for the family, especially scary is cooking for the ladies, and to show Sophie one of his favourite tagines!
Duration: 30'

 

4  High Atlas Adventure

Now its time to shake off the dust and heat of Marrakech and head to the hills or mountains really. Sophie and Khalil pack up their Maroc-mobile and head out over the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains to Ouarzazate. After a refreshing stop at one of the many lovely cafés overlooking the unfolding spectacle of valleys, snow-fields and mountains they head eagerly upwards towards the wild mountain village of Taddert. Known for its open-air butchers and grill specialists, the town is the last stop before puffing over the high passes.Confusingly there are two Tadderts, one after another and in fact the higher village is known as Taddert 2 so not all that confusing. And it is in Taddert 2 that the true nature of fast-food on the hoof becomes apparent. Animals are everywhere, live and in trucks, bound on the ground and sizzling on the many grills. It is a meat-eaters delight and Khalil rustles up a couple of succulent kebabs for him and Sophie before heading out.
Duration: 30'

 

5  Hollywood in the Desert

Having successfully crossed the High Atlas Sophie and Khalil now find themselves in the desert town of Ouarzazate which means 'without noise' or 'without confusion' in Berber. Long considered the gateway to the great Sahara Desert, the town sits below the mountains and at the head of the beautiful Draa Valley. Ouarzazate is in stark contrast to the bustle and heat of Marrakech and comes across as a Wild West town with wide streets, covered walkways and a very laid back manner. Originally a French colonial administrative capital the main business of the town seems to have become celebrity in the form of the big Atlas Film Studios which lie on the main road leading in. Sophie and Khalil quickly settle into the groove with a tour of the Glouai family Kasbah which is right across from the Musee du Cinema followed by a visit to the world-famous restaurant, Chez Dimitri.
Duration: 30'

 

6  Date in the Desert

Never known to sit still for long Sophie and Khalil head out of town and down south following the high passes and palm lined vistas of the Draa Valley to Zagora, arguably another town vying for the name, 'gateway to the Sahara'. Once in Zagora they meet up with their host, M. Abdesslem El Malali and plunge into the Sunday souk. And what a souk this is! The market is a bustling regional event with Berbers and nomads from the desert mingling with town people trading their wares. Everything is sold from camel meat to antiques to light bulbs and a vast array of spices. Later the trio bounce along a track out of town to the Malali date plantation which lies under the Jbel Bani ridge. This area is an oasis of farming with some one hundred families growing some of the world's most succulent dates and produce. At the farm Madame Malali welcomes the visitors and they are treated to the making of camel tagine and eating in a Berber tent.
Duration: 30'

 

7  A Berber Revelation

Ensconced at the beautiful riad, Sophie and Khalil befriend the owner, Ahmed Yassine who leads them to his fabulous carpet and antique emporium, complete with Berber rooftop tearoom. After a relaxing chat and mint tea the duo head further south to the famous village of Tamgroute. Tamgroute is the home of the lovely green glaze pottery which is found in markets around the world. They go in search of a friend of M. Yassine and find him outside his home. Khalil having made a special Moroccan dessert carries it into the family home where Sophie and the whole group are treated to a traditionally cooked tagine served in the courtyard of the extended family home.The family home houses some thirty-two members although a further one hundred and eighty-three live in the village and it seems Sophie and Khalil met quite a few as the people of Tamgroute are very friendly. They take Sophie and Khalil around the pottery works and stores to show them all the processes in making these lovely dishes
Duration: 30'

 

8  Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs and Roses

When in Ouarzazate one can go east as well to explore something quite out of this world. Lying in the Valley of the Dades lies the famed Route of a Thousand Kasbahs and truly it is that. As Sophie and Khalil pass on the road out of the town they see what seems a mirage, a lovely man made lake. Then further on the Kasbahs start to dot the horizon as they travel to Kelaa M'Gouna. The town of M'Gouna is famed for its rose trade. There roses are grown, harvested, crushed, distilled and made into countless Barbie pink products which are available just about anywhere one looks! After a tour of the sadly not in bloom rose fields and a charming perfume distillery Sophie and Khalil contemplate food with rose water and concoct an apple and rose water 'smoothie' which is truly a revelation. Another stop along the way is the small but perfectly formed Irocha Bed and Breakfast.
Duration: 30'