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48 HRS IN GIBRALTAR
GARETH DAVIS
looks after all the editorial content at Travel Channel and
runs the website. So if you've any comments or complaints, he's
the one to get in touch with! He also produces and presents
on the channel, primarily the series THE TRAVEL BUG and THE
TRAVEL CHANNEL GUIDE TO … And when he has a spare minute,
he writes for the travel section of the Sunday Mirror in the
UK.
Poor old Gibraltar! One of the last surviving
bits of the British Empire and ignored by most of folks back
in Blighty, she clings on for dear life. Gib, as the locals
call her, fights the good fight, flies the flag and keeps the
Spanish at bay while maintaining a proud independent identity.
And this month her stubborn loyalty to the past is on display
more than ever. 21st October 2005 is the 200th Anniversary of
the Battle of Trafalgar and Gibraltar is putting on a bit of
a show in what may be a final salute to the way things used
to be, before the EU and Spanish move in for the kill.
 Trafalgar
of course is the one where Nelson sent Napoleon’s fleet
to the bottom of the sea while urging every Englishman to do
his duty and driving the point home by getting himself killed.
En route back to Britain, the navy’s first port of call
was Gibraltar where the great man’s body was preserved
in brandy, or rum depending on the version you read, and the
local rag, the Gibraltar Chronicle, became the first newspaper
to report the battle and Nelson’s death. This is what
Gibraltarians will be remembering this month when they unveil
a new statue of Britain’s favourite Admiral. It’s
also an opportunity to remind Brits of a shared past.
After all, that’s definitely one
of the things that draw the summer day-trippers to Gib from
the Costa del Sol - along with the cheap fags, booze, and perfume
of course. But the resourceful Gibraltarians are also trying
to tempt British holidaymakers over on year-round weekend breaks.
Getting to Gibraltar is a case of Gatwick, Heathrow, Manchester
and Luton. The truth is you can only fly to Gib from the UK,
though a deal with the Spanish for a route from Madrid is in
the offing. There are seven flights a week from Heathrow and
ten a week from Gatwick with GB Airways, and four flights a
week from Manchester and daily flights May to October from Luton
(five times a week in winter) with Monarch. For details check
out www.ba.com
or call 0870 850 9850, and www.flymonarch.com
or 08700 406300.
FRIDAY NIGHT
Flying into Gibraltar has a Second World War feel about it.
That’s when the runway was built but I’m talking
about the sense of drama. It’s one of the shortest runways
in the world so cue sharp descent, popping ears and fluttering
hearts. But if the weather’s not good, rather than gamble
with zero visibilty and a 400 metre high Rock lurking somewhere
in the mist, you’ll be flown to Malaga and coached to
Gib, a 2 hour transfer.
 Once
you’re in, everything’s within taxi distance from
the tiny airport. A classic way of kicking off your stay in
the British Dependent Territory of Gibraltar is to head for
the colonial surroundings of The Rock Hotel, built in 1932,
and home to Churchill during his visits to Gib. There, enjoy
an intimate dinner gazing out across Algeciras Bay to the Atlantic.
Two courses will set you back £26 or go for a 3 course
set menu with a glass of the local sherry or manzanilla thrown
in for £22.95. (The Rock Hotel, Europa Rd, Tel. +350 73000
www.rockhotelgibraltar.com)
SATURDAY MORNING
Shopping may not seem the obvious way of kicking off your stay
but Gib’s shops close on Saturday afternoons so get your
bargain hunting in early. Gibraltar’s main street is called
Main Street and no way could it be confused with its USA namesake.
This one’s narrow, semi-pedestrianised and primarily littered
with the duty free standards – fags, booze and perfume.
Ciggies are cheap averaging around £9 a carton, it’s
£6 or less for a bottle of brand spirits, though perfumes
I found to be on a par with the UK. Squeezed among all these
vices are familiar UK high street names like BHS, Topman, Burton
and Body Shop, as well as the most successful M&S outside
the UK. Of course, its popularity’s gone through the roof
since the demise of the company’s other continental outlets.
The Gib store attracts shoppers from afar away as Madrid. It’s
amazing what we’ll do for reliable undies!
Gibraltar’s main square is Casemates,
named after the British barracks that used to occupy the north
side of the square. It’s a lively social hub with shops
and cafes. A great place for lunch is the Lord Nelson Bar and
Brasserie. It’s actually a refurbished barracks, very
family-oriented during the day, and you can get a sandwich for
£3.50, a burger for £6.50. (Lord Nelson Casemates
Tel. +350 50009 www.lordnelson.gi
 At
the south end of Main Street is the Trafalgar Cemetery, so-called
because two of the internees, Lieutenant William Forster and
Lieutenant Thomas Norman, died of wounds received in the famous
battle. The cemetery’s a fascinating place to explore
with gravestones mainly dating from 1798 to 1814. The Trafalgar
ones are easy spot as they’ve been scrubbed up for the
bicentenary. You can get more info on the cemetery from The
Gibraltar Heritage Trust Tel. +3450 42844 Email: heritage@gibnet.gi
STAURDAY AFTERNOON
The must see of course is the Rock itself. For first timers,
it’s a pretty impressive sight; a great towering lump
of Jurassic limestone dominating the surrounding landscape.
Signing up for a tour by taxi or by coach is easy. The operators
flutter around the airport like fleas around a Tingitanian ape.
Prices average £12 – 14 for an adult and £6
– 9 for a child, depending on the duration of the tour
and vehicle used. Bland Tours (Tel. +350 75552) is a long-established
bus tour company. For a taxi ring the Gibraltar Taxi Association
on +350 70027/70052. The basic route takes 90 minutes
visiting St Michael’s Cave, a spectacular natural grotto;
the Great Siege Tunnels which were scraped out of the rock by
British soldiers in the 1770s and 80s giving birth to the Royal
Engineers in the process; and of course, the famous Apes. Yes,
they’re fun to watch except when they’re trying
to gnaw your handbag out of your hands. Care is needed. The
highlight however on a clear day is the views. At Europa Point,
the southernmost point in Gib you can stare across at North
Africa and the mountain of Jebel Musa that along with Gibraltar’s
Rock forms the two ancient Pillars of Hercules.
You don’t have to sign up for a
tour. It’s possible to do your own thing on foot or by
car. The Rock Nature Reserve which is where all the sights mentioned
above are located is open daily 0930 – 1900. Entrance
for adults costs £7, and it’s £4 for children
between 5 and 12. For additional guidance visit Tourist Information
on Cathedral Square Tel. +350 45000 Email: tourism@gibraltar.gi.
 SATURDAY
EVENING
Queensway Quay is one of Gibraltar’s many smart marina
developments and it’s a relaxing place to crawl to for
a grown-up meal out. Claus On The Rock (14 Queensway Quay Tel
+350 48686) is 5 years old and serves a truly international
menu, everything from Lebanese mezze through gravadlax to sushi
roll. The whole place is housed in a Moroccan tent, a nod to
neighbours across the Straits. Starters are from £3.50,
mains from £11, and wine from £14 a bottle.
The Quay is a little laid back of a Saturday
evening. For nightlife, head for Casemates Square. In summer
there’s free live music and throughout the year the square’s
bars offer a mixture of sounds, from jazz to blues through pop
and disco.
SUNDAY MORNING
Rock and Fortress is a new addition to Gibraltar’s attractions
offering regular walking tours through the Rock’s labyrinth
of 2nd World War Tunnels. A portion of the 30 miles of tunnels
built by the Royal Engineers to keep Hitler at bay is opening
to the public later this month. There’s a new Visitors’
Centre, and photographic exhibitions that really bring to life
the conditions experienced by the 18,000 men and women who for
the duration of the war made the Rock their home. The new tour
can be combined with a visit to a section of 18th century tunnels
called the Middle Galleries for £7.50. For more info tel.
+34 73446 or +34 686 878 906, or e-mail rimarsam@gibnet.gi
Scattered along Main Street are a number
of pubs that offer lunches. A good Sunday option is the Royal
Calpe (176 Main Street Tel +350 75890). It has a beer garden,
a relaxed atmosphere and a lunch menu which caters to children
and grown ups. Children’s meals average £4 and adults’
£6.
SUNDAY AFTERNOON
 The
Mediterranean and Atlantic meet at Gibraltar so it shouldn’t
come as a surprise that the result is some pretty exciting marine
activity, including those family favourites, dolphins. Dolphin
watching has resulted in a range of excursions where common
dolphins are, well, common, and if you’re really lucky,
you may see the bottlenose and striped variety. Dolphin Safari
(Marina Complex Tel. +34 9567 71914) is the longest running
set up and offers 90-minute excursions that cost £25 for
adults and £12 for children. This is the perfect way of
wrapping up your weekend. It’s even possible a migrating
whale could stray your way.
TRAFALGAR REMEMBERED!
From now through to the end of December
Gibraltar is celebrating the Trafalgar Bicentenary. Events include
monthly historical talks and re-enactments. The Volunteer Rooke
Band is performing regularly in Casemates Square, and coach
tours are ferrying history buffs to Cape Trafalgar. The climax
of the celebrations is the Trafalgar Regatta and Rally 16th
– 21st October, the unveiling of the Nelson Statue on
the 28th, and the performance of The Guard Mount and Freedom
of the City March by the Royal Navy and Royal Marines through
Main Street on the 29th. For further details contact the Gibraltar
Tourist Board on 020 7836 0777 or email info@gibraltar.gov.uk
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October 2005 |