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HUMBLED AT BALLYBUNION
Matt Stott produces
the trailers that promote upcoming programmes and series on
Travel Channel. When he's away from the edit suite, he has an
almost unhealthy interest in all things golf related and a particular
love of Irish golf courses. He plays off an extremely average
18 handicap, but insists he talks a good game. When left alone
in a room, it's not long before he starts practicing his golf
swing.
 After
a cracking game on a parkland course in Dublin, our four-ball
got chatting about must-play links courses in Ireland.
Malachy asked his dad about his memories of the courses
on the West Coast. His dad's head tilted skywards and
eyes glazed over when Ballybunion was mentioned. This
wouldn't have been so bad if he hadn't been on the motorway
at the time, driving the Espace.
Ballybunion stuck in my mind and so we
approached it chomping at the bit. The course was first established
in 1893 and there's a whiff of an elegant grandparent taking
a stroll on a Sunday afternoon about it. The locals afford it
a lot of respect and there's a tacit nod that if you set aside
enough time, they'll share stories aplenty with you.
Tom Watson dobbed his cap in respect when
he recently claimed: “Having played the Old Course many times
since my first visit in 1981, I am now of the opinion it is
one of the best and most beautiful tests of links golf anywhere
in the world.”
The course is just outside Ballybunion
town in County Kerry, on the south west coast of Ireland. The
approach to the newly built clubhouse doesn't suggest what lies
ahead. It's impressive and has all you could ask for; a pro
shop, changing rooms and dining facilities for up to 120 people.
Not that we noticed much. We sped through with only golf on
our minds. I've never been able to get rid of that childlike
dash to the first tee…
 We
were lucky enough to be joined by Larry, a local member and
an Irish hurler of some repute – well, his own repute. I've
never seen golf played so quickly, and the old line of ‘slow
it down to a blur' was more than apt. I started my golfing marathon
8 years ago and was taught the etiquette by a Scottish buddy.
Quick practice-swing, address the ball, belt it, pick up your
bag and walk. This looked to be far too leisurely for Larry
as he played golf at the same pace as a hurling match. He didn't
bother with practice swings and we wondered if he was trying
to get away from us.
The first was a treat. Shortish par four
along an undulating fairway with an inviting and open green.
The key to this one was it was out of the wind. I started well
and stupidly thought that this could be THE DAY. More fool me.
The second will linger with me. It's a
fair par four but has pot bunkers down the left side, playing
to an elevated green through the middle of what appear to be
two fifty-foot Celtic burial mounds. Any errant drive means
a blind shot out of a bunker or over these imposing hillocks.
Once I eventually made it onto the green, it blatantly mocked
my putting. I came crashing back to mediocrity.
A tricky par 3 follows and then the course
opens up a wee bit for a couple of gentle and reassuring par
5's. There are no trees on this course but it's generally pretty
easy to gauge where the wind is coming from. If you're walking
at 45 degrees, it's in your face, and if you're running after
your golf cap, then it's at your back. It's not until you get
to the 7th that the stunning coastline starts to make an impression.
 This
beach is as good as any you'll find anywhere. There's miles
and miles of it and all I could see was one lonely dog walker.
The wind had miraculously changed direction by the time we teed
off and the blue sky belied the gale that raged in our faces.
A long low drive followed by a peach of a three wood and I was
still 70 yards short of a 386 par four. Being a relative links'
novice (and ignoring the two previous shots) I hit a gentle
pitching wedge for the middle of the green. The ball took off,
hung in the air for an age and then retraced its take off path
landing 50 yards short of the pin. Larry then offered me some
invaluable advice. Close the face of a 7 iron and opt for a
pitch and run.
The course then moves away from the howling
coast and is protected, slightly, by the rolling hills. The
rough is as forgiving as a hat-trick ball from Shane Warne.
You'll prefer to be in a bunker as there's at least a chance
of finding your ball. By the time you reach the coast again
you'll be on the 10th or 11th. The latter was my favourite.
Its design seems totally dictated by the weather without a flat
lie anywhere along its fairway (I opted to stick to the rough).
There are a number of ‘safe' areas to head for but it's an all
round challenge no matter what the conditions. It's one of those
holes that ‘summon up the blood'. You've got to get everything
just right in order to stand a chance at it.
The par 3, 15th is also a real test of
character and technique. Like the course in general, the hole
is fair, if you play a good golf shot; fall short or
miss the green at your peril. Most of the holes at Ballybunion
are like this. The contours aren't reserved solely for the fairways.
The greens deserve a masterclass all of their own.
 If
you relish the essence of true links golf, Ballybunion won't
disappoint. For those who've played here, the merest mention
of its name is followed by a sharp intake of breath and a shake
of the head. It tests you to your very limit and it's a good
idea to bring along a hearty slice of humble pie. Ballybunion
is the kind of course that stimulates discussion at the bar
and brings golfers into a huddle of agreement. Book if you can
and pray it's not a day where the members say the wind's fierce.
The green fees at Ballybunion aren't expensive
considering its status. When we played in September of 2003,
they were a very reasonable €125. The biggest concern you'll
have is getting a booking. Call a long way in advance and be
patient. If it takes you a year to play here, it'll be worth
it. This grand old course has many a trick up its sleeve and
an answer to your every move. You'll be tamed, believe me.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Ballybunion Golf Club (Old Course):
Sandhill Road
Ballybunion, Co.
Kerry, Ireland
Tel: 068 27146
Website: www.ballybuniongolfclub.ie
Green Fees: Start at £83 per round.
If you have any golfing tips or tales
you'd like to share, please GET IN TOUCH August 2005 |